Grunge and androgyny in make-up

Several strong themes seem to have emerged from the New York fall 2013 fashion collections, including a strong trend for grunge and androgynous make up, reports the New York Times fashion page today:

Grunge: “With its basic theme of anti-glamour, the grunge revival that has lasted several seasons now has been tricky for beauty. ‘There is this thought to try and give grunge more polish, maybe for a more


considered woman,’ said James Kaliardos, a makeup artist who works with brands like Maybelline, M.A.C. and NARS. “Last season, a lot of brands paid me a lot of money just to put moisturizer on the cheeks,” he said with a wry chuckle.

“Shows including Derek Lam, Creatures of the Wind, Kenneth Cole, Dannijo and Carmen Marc Valvo displayed the requisite pallor. (Though Scotland, the Victorian era and other references to the United Kingdom — do you suppose anyone’s been watching ‘Downton Abbey’? — were substituted for 1990s-era Seattle).

“’The paler skin is very Oscar Wilde but also baroque,’ said James Boehmer, the director of global artistry at NARS, who was behind the evening look at Carmen Marc Valvo. (‘It’s not for Sunday brunch,”’he said.) To make it more flattering, Mr. Boehmer highlighted cheekbones with NARS Copacabana and Luxor iridescent multiple sticks. At Creatures of the Wind, he did matte complexions: a sharp contrast with rose-gold lids.

“Lips tended to be plummy or the color of wilting roses. In one novel application, at Kenneth Cole, Romy Soleimani, a lead artist at M.A.C., brushed on the brand’s popular Ruby Woo lipstick, but then deepened corners with black liner pencil.

“At Derek Lam, Tom Pecheux for Estée Lauder used his finger to dab on Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Burnished Bronze and Pure Color High Intensity Lip Lacquer in Electric Wine. “The heat of your finger almost melts and stains the lip this way, instead of sitting like a layer,” he said. (Both products will arrive at counters in August.) Then, he added touches of true black to the center of the lip. (Attention goth girls: don’t go too brown, as Claire Danes did at the Screen Actors Guild Awards; it can create a deadening effect.)

Androgyny: “For those with a no-nonsense sensibility, there were several shows to admire. At Helmut Lang, Hannah Murray for NARS focused on creamy skin (tinted moisturizer and a sweep of Orgasm blush) with bold brows on the brunettes and barely defined arches on blondes. Eyes had a subtle sheen imparted by NARS velvet gloss lip pencil in Cythere (a soft gold) applied with flesh-toned eye shadows. The barely-there monochromatic result felt schoolgirlish.

“Similarly, at Alexander Wang, Diane Kendal, also for NARS, used neutral contouring, or “shade and light” as she called it. Ms. Kendal lined the upper lash line and deepened the crease with Lhasa gray shadow.  ‘It’s strong with a hooded eye,’ Ms. Kendal said of the masculine look. Even nails were kept to “an androgynous short length,” said Jan Arnold, a founder of CND, which supplied the nude color, Impossibly Plush, used on them.”


For more see:




Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *